
The Last Pho: Eating in Budapest in the Time of Coronavirus
I was hungry, but I guiltily kept walking, on my way to stock up on cleaning supplies. I am sure I’m not the only one who has performed this kind of quick calculation: weighing the options between sup…
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Five Amazing Spots at Budapest’s Lehel Market Hall
The quality of the produce and the diversity of food stands at the Lehel Market is exceptional, and we could have easily listed many more highlights.
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Krumplis Tészta: A Protected Man in Budapest
Adventures in krumplis tészta (potatoes with pasta), with a recipe.
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The Four Types of Pogácsa You Meet in Budapest
Pogácsa, which usually gets a loose translation as ‘scones’ or ‘biscuits,’ are everywhere in Hungary. Pogácsa, or ‘pogi’ for short, also seem to be compulsory for most organized social gatherings.
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Zsemle: Hungary’s Multi-purpose Wonder Roll
We hesitate to call zsemle beloved, they are definitely depended upon. More convenient than a kilo or half kilo of your standard Hungarian loaf of bread, not mass produced yet inexpensive enough to be…
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Hekk: Hungary’s Favorite Saltwater Fish
Hekk is a curious fish to find in Hungary, as it is a sea fish, and Hungary is a landlocked country. How hekk became so popular locally is still a bit murky. WHat is not disputed is that the most Hung…
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Lunch at the Butcher’s: the Real Hungarian Street Food
The concept of ‘street food’ is now a global phenomenon. But while backpackers munch on pulled pork sandwiches and tacos, the real local street food is going largely unnoticed by those who are not Hun…
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Főzelék: The Lighter Side to Hungarian Lunch
Főzelék is a lunchtime staple as much as any gulyás or paprikás. It is the unheralded anchor of any étkezdé’s (lunch canteen) menu. It’s popular with good reason, and taken very seriously.
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Csontvelő: The Decadent Bliss of Hungarian Bone Marrow
A good csontvelő (bone marrow) is worth a trip across town for, worth planning an evening around. You may have to, because it is not the easiest dish to find.
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On Frog Legs and Regrets on the Streets of Budapest
The thing about frog legs is that you can’t dither. If you are fixing to get frog legs, you shouldn’t hesitate. For one thing, they are a very easy dish to talk yourself out of. For another, even plac…
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Jókai Bean Soup: Steamy Romance In A Bowl
You can see why Jokai was so taken with the soup. Jókai bableves has a rich, nourishing flavor that intoxicates and demands to be overindulged in. The meal is hearty in the truest sense of the word. W…
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A Selection of Hungarian Liver Preparations
Is there any commonly eaten food more divisive than liver? Loved and loathed in equal measures, it is also the cheapest cut at the market but the most expensive item on the menu. Banned, fetishized, r…
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How to Deliver Túró Rudi to a Friend
Túró Rudi is one of those acquired tastes, but once acquired, impossible to shake.
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Lángos: Hungary’s Deep Fried Treat
Due to its heaviness, lángos is a meal best eaten when it has been worked for in one way or another. Dough deep fried, brushed with minced garlic and topped with various other fatty delights like smok…
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The Sweet Gesture of Gesztenyepüré: Hungarian Chestnut Puree
Gesztenyepüré is a beloved Hungarian dessert. While you can get it year round, chestnuts are seasonal, so its flavors resonate most in autumn. There is something of a nostalgic feel to the dessert, at…
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Balkezes Sörfözde: Hungary’s Left-Handed Craft Beer Brewery
The craft beer scene in Hungary was slow to develop, but once it began to take off, it changed the face of beer drinking in Budapest. Tamás Nyaras of Balkezes Sörfözde, discusses the current local cra…
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Be Your Own Trip Advisor: How to Spot A Good Restaurant While Traveling
There is a lot to be said for going offline to walk around and follow your instincts when exploring a new culture’s culinary scene. It’s one of those micro-adventures that make travel so rewarding. Th…
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How To Buy Homemade Pálinka (and Why You Should)
We’re not saying it’s a good idea to buy under-the-counter pálinka, but if that’s what you want, you should know how to go about getting it.
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Bookish in Buda: Literary Cafés of Budapest
With cafés like Centrál and New York giving shelter and comfort to writers of the famous Nyugat movement of Hungarian writing, you can’t talk about a classic Hungarian café without mentioning the writ…
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Elegy to Zsiros Kenyér: A Good-bye to Budapest’s Classic Pub Grub
In Budapest, some dishes go out of style, only to be re-introduced years later as more expensive ‘retro’ fare. It also happens that some dishes disappear not to be seen again.
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Flódni: The Four Act Pastry
Flódni is a traditional Hungarian Jewish confection. With fillings of poppy, walnut, apple, and plum jam, separated by five layers of sweet pastry, its flavors of tart, bitter, and sweet meld together…
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Hungarian Stuffed Cabbage: The Wedding Gift You Didn’t Know You Wanted
More than fortification for the coming party, the midnight cabbage represents a kind refusal to give in.
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Szalonna: Call It Delicious, Just Don’t Call It Bacon
Every now and again a word gets mistranslated, and that mistranslation is picked up on and replicated until it’s been hopelessly absorbed into common usage.
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That’ll Do Pig: The Marvelous Rise of Mangalica
If you haven’t heard of Mangalica, don’t feel left out. The fact that there is any of it at all is a small miracle.
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Dog Tongues and Ink: Historic Literary Coffeehouses in Budapest
If nostalgia had a taste, it would be that of a bitter, robust sip of coffee served at Centrál Café, or one of the other coffee houses in Budapest.
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Lecsó as a Verb
Lecsó as a noun is known in flippant company as the Hungarian ratatouille, the dish that’s not really a stew, not a soup, not exactly a side dish, but somehow takes characteristics of all these.
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Chomping at the Bit: a Hungarian Horse Sausage Primer
Though Hungarians’ fondness for horse meat is far from universal among the population, a demand for it persists and horse sausage is still commonly found at market halls around Budapest.
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